Auf und abseits des Surfbretts

Study hard, find a well-paid job, save money, buy a house, buy a car, have kids, buy a bigger car, feel trapped every single day. Why? Because society tells you to? Maybe you do not want those things, perhaps you want to spend your money on meaningful experiences, escape the rat race and gain control over your life. 

“Sliding on waves”, or He’e Nalu in Hawaiian, is a gift that has been passed on to us by our Polynesian ancestors, with a history of over 4,000 years. Over the last decade, surfing has gained more popularity than ever, and will make its debut at the 2020 Olympics. 

Very few (legal!) things in this world are as addictive as surfing. The search for the perfect wave is never-ending, but the journey itself is incredibly fulfilling, and with each step that you come closer to reaching your goal, you will feel like floating on cloud nine.

World records are one of the best ways to become officially amazing. But sometimes, breaking a record involves taking great risks, which might make you wonder what is it that drives people to get into the Guinness Book of Records in the first place? 

For years, women have strived to be included in big wave competitions, while organizers argued that heavy waves like the notorious Mavericks or Jaws are just too dangerous for chicks. 

Getting barreled – that perfect moment when you are riding under the curling lip of the wave – is the “Holy Grail of surfing”! 

Any surfer knows that finding a good surfing destination isn’t the easiest of tasks. Thankfully, the USA offers a large selection of awesome surf spots. 

The awe-inspiring oceans we all love so much are under serious threat. The coastal environment has fallen victim to its own success. With tourism development come excessive artificial changes that are threatening this precious ecosystem. 

For die-hard surfers, it’s all about the waves. For all they care, if the swell is pumping and the barrels are rolling, the surf spot could very well be in the middle of nowhere. 

Want to have a taste of the “real Bali’ without missing out on the hip establishments, youthful vibes, contemporary art, and the surf?

When was the last time you did something for the very first time? 

What do Christmas and surfing have in common? Apparently, not that much. But there’s more to it than meets the eye! 

Surfboard shaping is a form of art. In this day and age, when machines have replaced almost all crafts (the surfboard industry makes no exception), riding a custom-built, hand-shaped surfboard is a deeply personal experience.

While some of us are still preparing our wishlist, others are already shopping for Christmas presents. Sure, giving love, friendship, and kindness is more important than material gifts, but we have to agree that the latter are always welcome. 

Yo, duuuude! Rad barrels out there!

Surf talk has got to be one of the most unique and recognizable lingos in the English language. Countless movies have portrayed the special way surfers speak, and even cartoons are using the surf terms for comedic relief.

Surfing feels good. There’s no denying that. Time slows down when you’re riding a wave, you don’t really think about anything and the rest of the world just vanishes. You are in awe. You are in the flow. But what does that mean, and how does that translate into your brain activity? 

Surf legend Philip Edwards, credited with being the first professional surfer and making the first signature surfboard in the world, famously said that “The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun”. We strongly agree with him and we also believe that surfing is so much more than just a sport; it is a lifestyle and, for some, a religion.

Oh decisions, decisions… Christmas is knocking on our doorstep, snow has already started to fall and ski resorts are opening their doors for the season. At the same time, the surf is pumping too. How can you possibly pick one or the other?

There is surfing and there is… big wave surfing, a completely different ball game. It takes guts, years of training and experience, a healthy dose of curiosity and taking calculated risks. Even then, anything can go wrong when faced with huge bodies of water that might come tumbling down on you at any given moment.

Oh, that precious moment when we are surfing into the sunset, no one in sight, complete tranquility, just you and the waves. And yet, you feel as though you’re not alone. You look around and see a shark’s fin nearing. What do you do?

There are sports that are inevitably competitive, like tennis or football, where there simply has to be a winner. The same cannot be said about surfing. There are indeed competitions, but not against adversaries. Surfers compete against themselves and the waves, and technique, boldness and innovation are what matter most. It is precisely this kind of journey of self-discovery that brings surfers together as a distinct cultural group.